1999 - Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Dujac

(the yield here was 45 hectoliters per hectare): Good full red. Knockout explosive nose combines raspberry, brown spices, underbrush, mustard seed and roast coffee. Very rich and sweet but with terrific energy and minerality lifting the wine's red fruit flavors. This grand cru is evolving at a snail's pace and seemed to grow even fresher as it opened in the glass. Finishes with firm but suave tannins and outstanding slowly rising length, with an unexpected piquant note of blood orange. This incredible Clos de la Roche is just approaching its peak. The most amazing thing of all: I tasted it from a 375-milliliter bottle.