2005 - Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Hubert Lignier

Originating at the southern edge of the Mazoyeres, a 2005 Charmes Chambertin displays aromas of baked cherries, resin, and almond extract. A creamy, polished, expansive palate features sweet cherry fruit accented by resin, spice and wood smoke. In a long, low-toned finish, the sweetness backs off a bit to reveal rich meaty flavors and humus-like earthiness. Such a sedate, refined, seamless performance as this is typical of Charmes at its best. There is a distressing cloud hanging over this venerable estate because Hubert Lignier and the American widow of his son, Romain, have been unable to agree on pooling their resources, with the result that two sets of 2006s were vinified (and the 2005s may end up being sold under two different labels). The 2005s I tasted had been drawn earlier in the day as approximations to the final blends. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.

Bright red-ruby, a bit less saturated than the Combottes. Reticent but pure nose hints at red cherry, rose petal and violet. Juicy, focused and highly aromatic in the mouth; offers lovely perfume but less early density of texture than the Combottes. But this is even less evolved, and the tannins are more obvious today.