2008 - Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Hubert Lignier

The 2008 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru put in a splendid showing against some serious company. Lucid in colour, it offers copious blackcurrant and bilberry fruit, a touch of iris flower, "cool" like many this vintage yet with more cohesion and intensity. No signs of any greenness here. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. Vibrant and structured, this has ample grip yet redeemed by more fruit concentration on the finish compared to some of its illustrious peers this vintage. It actually gains delineation with aeration. Magnificent.

The 2008 Clos de la Roche is a jewel, but it needs time. There is lovely depth and dimension as the wine opens up in the glass. The fruit shows terrific mid-palate density while the refined, elegant tannins add to an impression of class. This needs at least several additional years in bottle, but it is likely to remain understated in personality. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990