2003 - RunRig, Torbreck, Barossa Valley

(includes 5% viognier) Inky violet. Explosively aromatic nose offers the full range of red and black fruits, along with notes of candied violet, cinnamon, mace, star anise and exotic tobacco. Hugely concentrated and velvety but also remarkably precise and energetic, with very pure flavors of blackberry, boysenberry, plum preserve and kirsch Ripe, explosive and deep on the back; as rich and sweet as this is, it's not at all thick or cloying. A real balancing act of power and purity. The tannins are completely buffered by the wine's sheer concentration of fruit. I'd give this at least five years of cellaring to gain in complexity. As impressive to my palate as the superb 2002 version.

The 2003 RunRig is from a hot year. It was an interesting string of vintages: 2001 was hot and dry, 2002 was cold, and 2003 was a return to 2001-like conditions. Aromatically, the wine leads with the heat of the seasons, in the dark plum pudding, date, licorice, roasted meat and tar. In the mouth, the wine is dense, meaty and savory. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.