2010 - RunRig, Torbreck, Barossa Valley

The 2010 RunRig is superb and gracious. Powerful but finely wrought tannins support supremely elegant fruit. There are notes of sumac and cocoa, mulberry, pressed flowers and clove. This is fresh, harmonious and seamless, in line with the characters of 2004, 2002, 1998 and 1996. It's a massive wine, but it's balanced; and the alcohol is surprisingly not a thing—despite being very much of a thing analytically. 16% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.

(97% shiraz with 3% viognier): Opaque purple. A wild, highly perfumed bouquet displays scents of dark berry liqueur, incense, violet candy, fruitcake and licorice. Densely packed, palate-staining blueberry and cassis flavors are complemented by exotic star anise and cola qualities and lifted and focused by juicy acidity. Shows serious intensity and power on the remarkably persistent finish, which features velvety tannins, echoing dark fruit character and lingering florality. As usual, this was one of the stars of my annual Australia tastings.