2012 - Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru La Bussiere, Georges Roumier

As Burgundy lovers know, 2012 was a vintage with abnormally low yields that resulted in deep, concentrated wines. Today, the 2012 shows all of the richness of the year in spades. The natural intensity of the red stone fruit provides a striking foil for swaths of tannin that lurk beneath. Floral, spice and mineral notes develop in the glass hinting at the complexity that will develop over time. With a little air, the 2012 is drinking well today, although it has more than enough pedigree to age beautifully for many years to come. Readers lucky enough to own the 2012 should be thrilled. It is a superb bottle!

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Morey St Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière from Christophe Roumier from has a brisk and lively bouquet with briary, blackberry and sous-bois notes, detailed and precise with subtle use of oak that feels discrete, yet gives the aromas lift. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe, slightly soft tannin. There is just the right amount of dryness here, but it needed just a little more backbone and drive towards the finish. Though not as stellar as it showed from barrel, I suspect this will find its mojo with a few more years in bottle.

25% new oak. Monopole, of less than two hectares. South of Morey. Very Morey and lots of clay.Intense black fruit and quie a bit of gas but Christophe is a bit worried about how much less expressive the wines are tasting today with lower atmospheric pressure. Just a little bit smudgy. (JR)