2010 - Chianti Classico Grigio Gran Selezione, San Felice

San Felice's 2010 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Il Grigio is mostly Sangiovese with 20% other indigenous grapes. An exotic, spiced bouquet melds into dark red cherries, mint, wild flowers, leather, menthol and tobacco. The flavors are intriguing, layered and deep in a wine that impresses for its complexity. This is a terrific showing from San Felice. The new Gran Selezione Il Grigio encompasses much of what San Felice is all about; namely the intersection of Sangiovese and other native, once-forgotten grapes. It will be interesting to see how this bottling develops in future vintages.

Full bottle 1,248 g. Sangiovese blended with a small volume of wine from indigenous varieties (Pugnitello, Abrusco and Malvasia Nera).According to Leonard Bellaccini (who has been working at San Felice for nearly 40 years, became winemaker in 1989 and estate director in 1999), this was a brilliant vintage. They select berry by berry. Fermentation in stainless steel. Aged in oak for Interestingly, the 2010 looks younger than the 2013 – more ruby and depth to the colour. More fruit, as well. Black cherry, black olive, camphor wood. Silky tannins but they have plenty of grip and leave a widening fan of spices in their wake. Lots of acidity but it’s ripe and intense and centres the wine gracefully. The longer the wine is open, the more precise and sweet and defined and unexpectedly youthful the fruit becomes: woodland strawberries, raspberries, pomegranate! The wine finishes with peppery fragrance, beautifully resolved. (TC)