2015 - Colore, Bibi Graetz, Toscana

The 2015 Colore wafts up from the glass with masses of black cherry and autumnal spices complemented by sweet lavender. This is pure elegance, silky, nearly creamy, with zesty acidity and a pleasant inner sweetness offset by inner earth and floral tones. It leaves a staining of primary concentration contrasted by lingering sour citrus and tart wild berry nuances. There’s certainly a lot of power here, yet perfectly managed and with fantastic balance. I can already see the evolution that Graetz was striving for here, trying to focus more on purity and vertical lift.

Compared to the 2016 vintage, this edition from 2015 offers more volume and fruit weight, and it leans into oxidized flavors. The Bibi Graetz 2015 Colore is reaching the top of its drinking window, showing dried fruit, plum and a hint of something savory that reminds me of juniper or cured bresaola. The wine is quite accessible in terms of mouthfeel, and it ends with a touch of tannic dustiness. This wine is not evolving as I would have hoped.

80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Colorino. Another fine vintage in Tuscany with a very warm summer until rain in mid August. Harvest started on 26 September, finishing at the end of October. More evolution present in both colour (hints of brick red) and nose. The fruit seems a little more baked than the 2016, with plum and prune notes combining with some Asian spices and a lick of oak. Plenty of volume on the palate with the tannins just a little firmer than the following vintage. There is plenty of concentration here, with a fine future ahead. (AH)