2013 - Columella, The Sadie Family, Swartland

The 2013 Columella is matured for ten months in cask with 10% new oak, and then another ten months in foudres; Eben believes this slows down the maturation. It has a very complex bouquet, mercurial on the nose, and bestowed with wild strawberry and cranberry scents, incense and a hint of marmalade that is beautifully detailed. The palate is medium-bodied, extremely refined and mineral-laden, symmetrical and standing on tip-toes on the finish -- something that this label could not do when Eben started. It is compact at the moment, but it will turn into an astonishing Swartland wine.

(just 10% new oak, all Taransaud's top-of-the-line T5s): Good dark red. Black and red berries, menthol and wild herbs on the cool, reserved nose. Superconcentrated and bone-dry, but with lovely fruit sweetness and sappy spice character. Still tightly coiled and youthfully understated. Finishes very long and perfumed, with an amazingly light touch. I would expect this very young wine to merit an even higher score four or five years down the road.