1989 - Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol

This is an old school VCC blend with high Cabernet Sauvignon, before the vineyard with replanted with higher levels of Cabernet Franc beginning in 1991. Even so, any early austerity has melted by this point, and the wine is showing iodine, fine tannins, fragrant, melted, nothing out of place, earthy broth and campfire smoke with spiced, softened blackberry and black cherry fruit, tertiary and charming. Some dispute over the date of harvest, but almost certainly began on August 31, a feat that would not be repeated for many decades.

The 1989 Vieux Château Certan has long been one of my favorite wines of that decade. The bouquet shows no signs of relinquishing that title with gorgeous black truffle, bay leaf, warm gravel and briary scents that are simply beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity, "warm earth" on the entry, leather and truffle, great depth here with sublime precision on the finish, which is bridled with hints of mushroom and cloves. Maybe this is reaching its peak? Then again, it shows absolutely no signs of reaching the end of its plateau. This is nothing short of a wondrous Pomerol from Alexandre Thienpont. Tasted January 2016.

The 1989 Vieux Château Certan was an early picking from August 31 after the Merlots reached 13% alcohol, then regarded as a high level. It shows modest brick on the rim. This vintage appears to have matured faster in recent years. Indeed, I have fonder memories of this in the noughties. Loose-knit red fruit, tea leaves, light touches of mint - it does improve and cohere with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. It's a little compact and doesn't "flow" like the best Right Banks in this vintage. It just cuts away a little abruptly without your leave. The bottle poured the previous October at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner was far superior! Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove.

‘Mild and dry until late February. Budding occurred three weeks earlier than usual. It rained for 24 days out of 30 in April, causing some millerandage and coulure. June had mild weather, resulting in good flowering. June was very hot and quite stormy. The summer was dry and hot, similar to 1947, with Merlots reaching 13% potential alcohol. Ideal harvest conditions with high yields.’ 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlots reached 13% potential alcohol. Final alcohol 12.5%. The first time they picked in August. Glowing ruby. Fresh overlay. Spicy, layered nose that’s really quite intriguing. Then lively and fresh and revitalising. Not as heady and rich as I’d expected though it builds towards the end. Certainly displays VCC’s left-bank refreshment character. Mild tannic imprint. Clean and racy rather than opulent. But good persistence. Sweet and refined but slightly drying out on the end. (JR)