2010 - Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forets Saint-Georges, Domaine de l'Arlot

The 2010 Nuits St. Georges Clos des Forets St.-Georges is striking. Freshly cut flowers, spices and red berries are some of the many notes that are woven together. Though deceptively understated at first, the Forets St-Georges has plenty of underlying Nuits structure. A crystalline, totally pure finish laced with rose petals, spices and licorice wraps around the palate in stunning style. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. I was struck by the sheer beauty of the wines I tasted at Domaine de l’Arlot. The 2010s are stunning, while the 2009s are among the most structured wines of that year. Notes on the domaine’s 2009s will be published in the April issue. The 2010s are also the last wines made by Olivier Leriche, who left the domaine after the 2011 harvest. Leriche was replaced by Jacques Devauges, whose previous experience includes time at Frederic Magnien and Domaine de la Vougeraie. As is the case throughout the region, 2010 is a vintage marked by the devastating December frost, an irregular flowering caused by poor weather and continuing bad weather throughout the summer. Yields were down 30-40% across the board. The wines, however, are stunning, and I urge readers to check them out. Various American importers, including: A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677-9300; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; tel. (781) 278-2000; Triage Wines Inc., Seattle, WA; tel. (503) 236-6262; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Ansonia Wines, Washington D.C.; tel. (202) 506-4215; USA Wine Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 941-7133

(50% vendange entier): Good bright, deep red. Highly perfumed aromas of wild raspberry, forest floor, coffee, espresso and pungent minerals. Sweet, dense and fresh on the palate, offering superconcentrated, fine-grained dark fruit and soil flavors. Really well-judged use of stems here. Finishes with explosive length and a strong impression of extract. From a yield of barely 25 hectoliters per hectare, noted current technical director Jacques Devauges, who took over here just before the 2011 harvest.