1989 - Palmer, Margaux

Fleshy, stunningly fragrant, tobacco and crushed roses, very much a signature of older Palmer, so much finesse and gentle concentration, waves of delicate peonies, raspberries, cold ash, saffron, keeps coming back at you in waves of retro-olfaction, in its drinking window but with plenty of time ahead of it. Harvest 6 to 23 September. Served blind.

The 1989 Palmer has vied with the 1983 as the highlight of the decade, so it is fascinating to revisit it at 30 years old. It has a wonderful bouquet of degraded red berry fruit, singed leather and hints of game and mint, beautifully defined and still so fresh, yet undeniably old-school in style. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and still brimming with vigor, delivering a fine bead of acidity and a touch of cracked black pepper. A very detailed, engaging finish urges you back for another sip. A brilliant Palmer, and judging from this showing, it has another two decades of pleasure to give. Tasted from an ex-cellar bottle at the château.