2000 - Palmer, Margaux

Breathe deep to enjoy the curl of violet and woodsmoke aromatics that are coming out of this glass. Softened russet pink around the edges at 21 years old, still deep ruby through the core. The fruits are a little more tertiary than I expected, brambled raspberry, with hawthorn, tobacco, white pepper, truffle and campfire notes, but as it opens up, the palate expands outwards and builds in concentration and grip. No question this once-stubborn vintage is now open for business, and overall this is soft and welcoming but has decades ahead of it. Harvest September 21 to October 7. 60% new oak.

The 2000 Palmer is a very different “beast” than the 2001, and I use that word intentionally. This is much more feral on the nose, and quite ferrous, presenting leather and dried herbs, smudged red berry fruit, and a hint of fig that emerges with time. The brettanomyces sticks out a bit here. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins and good density, very earthy in style and certainly more evolved than the succeeding vintage, yet you cannot help falling for its charms. It evolves wonderfully in the glass, actually closing in a little toward the finish, and suggesting that contrary to what the nose suggests, it will repay further cellaring. Excellent.

Tasted at the Château Palmer vertical in London, the 2000 Château Palmer was closed for a number of years, but it appears to be finally opening. Deep in colour, there remains a slight broodiness on the nose, although it loses its inhibitions and develops potent blackberry, strawberry and mint aromas, perhaps just a smudge of camphor. It is unashamedly rich on the entry: intense and vibrant with layers of black cherry and cassis fruit pierced by a fine line of acidity. This millennial tightens everything up towards the, finish whereupon it reverts to something much more classic in style, long and tensile. It does not quite occupy the same class as the 2005 or the imperial 2010, but it certainly has long-term potential. My advice? Give it another 4-5 years in the cellar. Tasted May 2015.

53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot. More noticeable toasty oak than the 2005, perhaps a reflection of the fashion at the time? But the fruit is right there on the palate, still full of freshness and purity. Wonderfully expressive nose – the full range of liquorice, pencil lead, toast, cocoa, cassis, leather. Absolutely perfect for drinking now, even though it will age a little further. (RH)