2005 - Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs

Born of a challenging, disease-pressured season that demanded rigorous selection—yet one that nonetheless delivered considerable maturity in the weeks leading up to harvest—the 2005 Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne, disgorged in 2015, is exhibiting aromas of yellow apple, juicy peach and mirabelle plum, mingling with apricot, dried flowers and buttery pastry. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, broad and textural, with a rich core of fruit and ripe yet vibrant acids. In context, however, it is less harmonious and slightly heavier than other Comtes vintages shown at this tasting, lacking some of the usual energy and incisiveness. This is a good moment to pull the corks.

Taittinger’s 2005 Comtes de Champagne was a perfect way to commence proceedings. Orchard fruit and hints of brioche on the seductive nose are joined by a hint of lemon verbena filtering through with time. The palate is beautifully balanced, perhaps not as riveting as a recently tasted 2008, yet underpinned by a fine bead of acidity and exuding harmony on the apricot-tinged finish. This is drinking perfectly now but should give 15-20 years of drinking pleasure.

Very fine bead. Very tight and some dried spices on the nose. Rich and nervy. Dry finish. Already starting to come out and beguile. Tighter knit than the vintage 2005 in magnum. Not yet ready. (JR)