2006 - Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Clos des Papes

The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is beginning to reveal more quince and minerality characteristics. While it is less exuberant than the 2007, it is beautifully balanced and full-bodied with excellent definition as well as length. It has not yet begun to shut down. I have participated in so many exceptional tastings with Paul Avril that it is difficult for me to accept that his brilliant son, Vincent, may be eclipsing the work of his father. Vincent, trained in Burgundy, appears to be pushing things to an even higher level of quality. Nothing has changed in these cellars; everything is still as traditional as you will find. All the wines are kept in foudre, and the red Chateauneuf du Pape blend is one of only a handful in the appellation that contains increasing amounts of Muscardin, Vaccarese, and Counoise along with 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, and some Syrah. The white Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the longest lived of the appellation, and that’s saying something. The Avrils have proven me wrong many times by opening old bottles that I would have believed to be dead, but are still full of life and vivacity. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Mid-gold colour. Honey on the nose, with some oxidative notes to the fruit giving orange peel and preserved lemon. Has similar characteristics to Loire Chenin in many ways – apart from the low acidity, of course. Lengthy, profound, perfumed. (RH)