2000 - Gruaud Larose, Saint-Julien

Concentrated and full of still-confident tannins at 21 years old, this really gives a sense of how slowly and carefully Gruaud Larose ages. Black pepper spice ripples through the blackberry and blackcurrant liqueur, and you feel the ripeness in the grapes. Black truffle, slate and espresso come out as it opens, as is so often the case with Gruaud Larose, along with plenty of charred cedar and a juicy finish. Now opening up, but still with the freshness and slightly austere tannins of a young wine, a brilliant combination of power and delicacy. Harvest September 21 to October 4, 35% new oak.

Deep garnet-brick in color, the 2000 Gruaud Larose swans out of the glass with notes of Indian spices, tobacco leaf, and iron ore leading to wafts of dried flower, iodine, sweaty leather, and incense with a touch of smoked meats. The medium-bodied palate delivers a great core of muscular fruit with bright acidity to balance and plush, powdery tannins, finishing long and ferrous.

The 2000 Gruaud Larose has a perfumed and floral nose, touches of leather, wild mint and just a little Brettanomyces in the background, though not as much as the 1990 tasted alongside. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fresher than the 1990, grainy tannins with touches of pencil lead and allspice. A little espresso and leather surface towards the slightly loose-knit finish suggests it will not improve with further bottle age. Tasted at the Gruaud Larose vertical at the château in February 2023.