1995 - Margaux, Margaux

The 1995 Château Margaux is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years. This bottle showed well, even if it was pipped to the post by the 1995 Ducru-Beaucaillou on the night. It has a youthful bouquet with more red fruit than previous bottles, infused with freshly rolled tobacco and pencil box, crushed violet and hints of rose petal. The palate is armed with filigree tannins that frame the pure black fruit, hints of blue fruit surfacing towards the second half. Certainly its velvety texture instantly seduces and the poise on the finish is exquisite. This clearly has plenty in the tank, as it has not rushed headlong into its secondary phase. Tasted at the "Vintage Pairs" dinner at Club Bâtard in Hong Kong.

Bottled very late (November, 1997), the 1995 has continued to flesh out, developing into one of the great classics made under the Mentzelopoulos regime. The color is opaque ruby/purple. The nose offers aromas of licorice and sweet smoky new oak intermixed with jammy black fruits, licorice, and minerals. The wine is medium to full-bodied, with extraordinary richness, fabulous equilibrium, and hefty tannin in the finish. In spite of its large size and youthfulness, this wine is user-friendly and accessible. This is a thrilling Margaux that will always be softer and more evolved than its broader-shouldered sibling, the 1996. How fascinating it will be to follow the evolution of both of these vintages over the next half century. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2040.

Dark crimson with some evolution at the rim. Very focused and concentrated. Lots of concentrated cassis on the nose. Some graphite. Really cool and fresh (there are apologies for serving it too cool). Middle aged. Far from luscious but very true to type. Still quite bit of tannin in evidence. Work in progress. (JR)