2005 - Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns, Ghislaine Barthod

Saturated ruby-red. Superripe aromas of blackberry, mocha, bitter chocolate and coffee. Rich, sweet, very ripe and opulent, with a velvety texture and just enough lift to support its alcohol (Barthod says that the 2005s here are between 13.2% and 13.5% in bottle). With air, this very ripe wine showed a chocolatey aspect. Finishes with big, slightly tough tannins. This will require at least six or seven years of aging.

The 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Les Beaux Bruns offers a sweet, sappy, vividly fruity personality in keeping with the character of its siblings. Black raspberry jelly allied to notes of caramel and chocolate inform a rich, silky palate featuring fine but persistent tannins. This should drink well early, though I find it lacking in the refinement or distinction that characterizes most of Barthod’s wines. Possibly this is being held back by its touch of reduction, although generosity of fruit is not really the issue – the wine is actually quite come-hither. Sharing expanded wine-making facilities with her husband, Louis Boillot, Gislaine Barthod continues to render some of the purest, most expressively fruity and consistently excellent as well as ageworthy Pinots in Burgundy. All but the Bourgogne and village Chambolle – recently assembled in tank – were tasted from barrel. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.