2005 - Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Domaine de Montille

The 2005 Clos de Vougeot from Domaine de Montille has a fragrant nose with cranberry, incense and wild heather—much better defined than the Les Malconsorts. The palate is poised with a candied entry and a keen line of countervailing acidity, becoming plush and fluid with lovely weight and grip on the finish. There is something very assured about this. Tasted at the 05/15 Burgundy dinner in The Good Earth.

From new, centrally-located holdings, the de Montille 2005 Clos Vougeot offers a smoky, pungent, sweetly-fruited aroma, a rich, dense palate featuring lightly-cooked black cherry and raspberry, and an overtly ripe, meaty finish that evinces a touch of heat. This has the structure, formidable concentration and rich ripeness to suggest 6-8 years cellaring, but will it develop some nuance along the way? Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040. Also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29