1996 - Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

The 1996 took its time to come around, and this is still pretty serious, dark fruits, roses and peonies, tobacco, cigar box, you can feel the structure and architecture of this wine still being very much intact, with years ahead of it. Understated, impressive. Harvest September 24 to October 7, 43.3hl/h yield, 3.8ph. Cool early summer that built slowly in heat, with just the right amount of September rains, making the tannins present and plentiful. Henri Lurton owner and estate director.

The 1996 Brane-Cantenac stands as a worthy follow-up to the splendid '95, albeit not quite with the same sophistication. This vintage contained less Cabernet Sauvignon than the prior vintage (35% down from 48%). It veers more towards black rather than red fruit, this bottle a tad more opulent aromatically than previous ones, with just a hint of cassis and violet emerging with time. Fine definition. The palate is medium-bodied with a vibrant opening of black-pepper-laced black and blueberry fruit. It is a bit brasher than the '95 but upholds the leitmotifs of the estate, with just a touch of blood orange on the finish. This continues to drink well and should for another decade. Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château in September 2025.

Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château, the 1996 Brane-Cantenac is a blend of 35.4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47.6% Merlot and 17% Cabernet Franc. It has a fresh, mint-tinged bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, cedar and damp tobacco scents, a mintiness that becomes more pronounced with aeration. The palate is well balanced with grainy, slightly dry tannin. There is adequate depth and substance to this 1996 (more so than the subsequent three vintages), with black pepper and leather notes on the finish. Probably at its peak now, though I can envisage this offering another decade of drinking pleasure. Tasted March 2016.

48% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Cabernet Franc. 43.3 hl/ha.Deeper core than 1995 with brick at the rim. Fresher than the 1995 as well with a minty note on the nose. Tannins firm to hard but there’s sweetness on the palate and decent length on the finish. (JL)