1989 - Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac

The 1989 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a wonderful Pauillac. Served in tandem in Pichon Baron, I don't think it has quite the same class…but it's close. Certainly, stylistically, they are very different. Slightly more high-toned, with layers of black cherries and cassis fruit. Iodine and pressed violets seep through with aeration. Very composed, the Merlot adds a soupçon of opulence. The palate is medium-bodied, again high-toned with mulberry and blueberry fruit and a dab of salted licorice. The finish seems to indicate some Petit Verdot wanting a say in matters. It's just delicious from start to finish. Tasted at the 1989 dinner at Piccolino in London.

Soft truffle and tobacco, this was a hot year that comes through in its exotic cinammon spice flavours, and its freshly cut rosemary and sage herbs that sit against bilberry and black cherry fruits. There are still tannins here, now fully integrated, and a kick of fresh acidity that adds a mouthwatering feel from the mid palate. Softens on the finish, and this is just beginning to dip from its perfect drinking window.

Approaching full maturity, Pichon-Lalande’s1989 has a deep ruby/plum color with some lightening at the edge. The nose offers sweet plums and creme de cassis intermixed with vanilla and graphite. The wine is lush, medium to full-bodied, and layered with texture, low acidity, sweet tannin, and the hallmark purity and elegance this estate routinely produces. Some tannins remain, but this wine has reached its plateau of maturity, where it should remain for another 10-15 years. Anticipated maturity: Now-2017. Last tasted, 5/02.