1990 - Lynch-Bages, Pauillac

The 1990 Lynch-Bages continues to drink brilliantly at age 32, bursting from the glass with rich aromas of blackberries and crème de cassis mingled with cigar wrapper, loamy soil, burning embers, nori and subtle hints of sweet leather. Full-bodied, broad and fleshy, it's unctuous and enveloping, with a generous core of fruit, sweet but still present tannins and a long, expansive finish. I have always tended to compare the 1990 and 1989 Lynch-Bages, and both wines are among the finest produced in Bordeaux in those years, embarrassing several of the first growths; if I had to choose, I'd likely opt for the 1989 for its greater depth and staying power, but the 1990 is an immensely seductive, hedonistic wine that's very hard to resist.

The 1990 Lynch Bages can be an astounding Pauillac and although this was impressive, it was just a step off the best I have tried. Graphite-infused black fruit, very harmonious and powerful, with an incongruous background scent of Wellington boot. The palate is supremely well balanced, slightly grainy in texture, with quite firm tannins and cedar and tobacco-infused black fruit on the finish. Wonderful. Tasted single blind at the 1990 Bordeaux dinner at Medlar.

75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Aged for 15 months in oak barrels. Solid red core with a touch of brick at the rim. Some sweetness on the nose but aromatically relatively reserved. Still plenty of vigour on the palate, the tannins firm, the fruit substantial. Lovely freshness as well. Very Pauillac. Still room to develop. (JL)