2008 - Figeac, Saint-Emilion

I'm a huge fan of this slightly old school vintage, with its fennel and aniseed nose, along with concentrated raspberry and cranberry fruits. Clear smoke notes as it unravels, and some firm tannins that retain a touch of austerity even at 13 years old. A late harvest year after a cool summer and sunshine-filled September, running from October 1 to 20, giving a yield of 29hl/h yield. 100% new oak for ageing.

The 2008 Figeac was the first vintage with winemaker Frédéric Faye at the helm following the passing of Thierry Manoncourt. It is a tripartite blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc cropped at 29hl/ha, matured in 100% new oak for 20 months. As I have remarked with respect to previous encounters, there is something almost Burgundy-like on the nose, thanks to the purity of fruit. With aeration it develops more Bordeaux traits such as mint and cedar. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin cut through by a fine line of acidity. This feels harmonious in the mouth although it does not possess the precision of current vintages. It remains rather masculine on the finish, completing an enjoyable Figeac that serves as a fine wine in itself, but can also be seen as a forerunner for the excellent 2009 and 2010 vintages. (Tasted at the château and at BI Wine and Spirit’s annual vertical tasting.)

Tasted at the Château Figeac vertical at the property. The 2008 Figeac has an almost Burgundy-like bouquet that is nicely defined: smudged strawberry, touches of blood orange and even quince coming through. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip. It is perhaps lacking a little substance and feels a little masculine and austere, though that is keeping with the vintage. Foursquare and conservative, this is what you might call an unapologetically "classic" Figeac that should be drunk over the next fifteen years. Tasted June 2015.

Full bottle just 1,295 g. Much less expressive on the nose than the 2009 Figeac. Initially anyway – I will put it in a young-wine decanter. But on the palate it's even more concentrated and very straight-backed Figeac-like. The relationship between the 2008 and the 2009, Thierry Manoncourt's last vintage, is very clear indeed. (JR)