2015 - Gigondas Hominis Fides, de Saint Cosme

That the 2015 Gigondas Hominis Fides is a great wine is undeniable; the question merely becomes, How great is it? Flowering garrigue and licorice notes start things off, followed by raspberries and dried spices, phenomenal concentration and length. It might show a touch of warmth on the finish, but by then I was writing in my notes "Who cares?" followed by joy-filled expletives.

Bright violet. Heady blackberry, cassis, incense and spicecake aromas show outstanding clarity and pick up a smoky mineral nuance with aeration. Sweet and seamless in texture; deeply concentrated red and dark fruit liqueur, spicecake and lavender pastille flavors are given lift and spine by a core of juicy acidity. Blends richness and delicacy with a smooth hand and finishes extremely long and sweet, the pliant tannins adding shape and gentle grip. This wine looks to be one of the finest examples of Gigondas that I have ever experienced.

Grenache, whole-bunch pressed. Vinified in concrete tank using indigenous yeast. Matured in oak barrels, 30% of which were new, 30% second use and 30% third use. Cask sample. Tasted blind. Dark garnet. Cool and fresh with an almost minty appeal. Racy and super-smooth. Very appetising. (JR)