2016 - Penfolds, St. Henri Shiraz

The 2016 St Henri Shiraz is one of the finest St Henris I've ever tasted, rivaling the likes of the 1986 or 1976. It's concentrated and rich, the essence of South Australia Shiraz (although it's been lightened by the addition of 5% Cabernet Sauvignon), unleavened by any new oak. Dark and tarry, it delivers notes of espresso and black olive, plummy fruit and roasted meat. Full-bodied and dense on the palate, it ends long, dark and savory.

Inky ruby. Expansive black and blue fruit, vanilla, baking spice and floral scents show superb clarity and pick up a smoky nuance with aeration. Stains the palate with sweet blueberry, cherry-vanilla, allspice and fruitcake flavors that show a suave blend of richness and vivacity. Finishes with outstanding energy, steadily building tannins and strong persistence.

95% Shiraz, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. From Barossa Valley, Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, Coonawarra. Aged for 12 months in old, large vats. TA 6.7 g/l, pH 3.72. Denser and more closed on the nose than the Bin 389. Lots of tar and liquorice, and plenty of heat too. There's an elemental, ferrous quality here, that bears strong comparison to Hermitage, although the primary fruit is still archetypical Australia. Still bound in hessian – those tannins will take years to soften. Magisterial! (RH)