2016 - Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon, Henschke, Eden Valley

The family's flagship Cabernet is the 2016 Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon. As usual, the oak regime incorporates a reasonable 20% new French hogsheads, lending a discreet edge of pencil shavings to the scents of pipe tobacco, menthol and cassis. It's medium to full-bodied but exquisitely balanced so as to appear nearly weightless on the palate, buoyed by ripe, plush tannins that turn softly dusty on the lingering finish. It's another excellent vintage for what is arguably Eden Valley's top Cabernet Sauvignon.

The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Cyril Henschke is a generous and fleshy Eden Valley expression with blackberry, chocolate, and wood smoke aromas, along with a hint of dried herbs. Flavoursome in style with pliable tannins, the 2016 is starting to reveal some aged, dusty tones, suggesting it is close to full maturity. That said, this will continue to be enjoyable over the medium term.

This single-vineyard wine often contains a percentage of Merlot and Cabernet Francbut in 2016 it is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon planted in 1988 and 1989 and managed biodynamically by the Henschkes themselves. Relatively high elevation and one of the last sites to be picked, on 12 and 13 April. Aged in 65% seasoned French oak hogsheads for 18 months prior to blending and bottling. Mid shaded ruby. Although this is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, it is no deeper in colour than the Euphonium 2016. That hint of of oyster shells I picked up on the Euphonium is really pronounced on this wine! Much tauter and more focused on the nose than most South Australian reds (north of Coonawarra). But the tannins are much softer than they would be in, say, a red bordeaux 2016. Tarry and lightly medicinal – in a positive way! Really quite smooth-textured for a Cabernet from a vintage which, I'm told, is more tannic than usual. Subtle, undeniably Cabernet, fruit but it should flower for many a year and ideally I'd keep it awhile. (JR)