2017 - Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

The 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly is quite giving this year, bursting with expressive aromas of pear, pastry cream, green apple, fresh peach and wheat toast. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and succulent, with an easygoing, open-knit profile that makes it quite an accessible, precocious rendition of this site.

(from three essentially south-facing vineyards; one-third 25-year-old vines and two-thirds 55): Pale yellow-green. Quite different on the nose than the Chatenière, offering fascinating scents of lemon and white peach complicated by herbs, mint and a suggestion of petrol. Impressively rich and thick but not oily, with flavors of lemon and lime ice enlivened by nicely integrated acidity. The palate-saturating finish is tactile but smooth, displaying terrific lift and length. There's no obvious rain effect here, due to the slope of the vineyards.

Bought by Pete de Bolla for the cellar of King's College, Cambridge for about £32 a bottle. Floral, edgy, mealy notes on the complex nose. This bottle seemed quite mature already! (JR)