2016 - Ultreia Rapolao, Raul Perez, Bierzo

I loved the 2016 Ultreia El Rapolao, which opened in a very spectacular way with time in the glass. It has notes of wild berries flowers and herbs intermixed with some earthy notes. The palate is intense but terrifically balanced, with very fine tannins but keeping a touch of rustic elegance that gives it character. This comes from one of the oldest plots in Rapolao, one of the cooler vineyards in Valtuille. It has unusual depth and intensity, and a rare combination of power and elegance. 1,200 bottles.

Deep, shimmering red. Highly expressive red and dark berry, cherry, licorice and succulent herb scents are complemented by suave floral pastille, Asian spice and smoky mineral accents. Spicy and penetrating on the palate, offering lively, mineral-braced bitter cherry, black raspberry and spicecake flavors that deepen and turn sweeter on the back half. Shows fine delineation and zesty mineral cut on the strikingly persistent finish, which features polished tannins and lingering florality.

Planted at 400 m elevation (north facing), clay soil with lots of organic material. An important area because it represents the future of Bierzo. Raúl has worked with this plot since 2010 when the fruit was cheap – now it is expensive and almost impossible to buy the grapes. Small parcel of four ha with 24 different owners. Raúl’s parcel is 0.4 ha and steep. Just 11.5–12.5% abv. They pick this vineyard in mid September usually. Long maceration period and two months' skin contact. No flor.Fresh and cool with real life and freshness. Hint of Bairrada. Light and salty. (JR)