2018 - Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett, Julian Haart

This registers 11 grams of acidity – shockingly high by any standards, not to mention those of its vintage. Against that, 44 grams of residual sugar do not seem in the least excessive. But what sweetness there is here – looked at the other way around – helps keep the spine-tingling acidity from crossing the pain threshold. Zesty and brightly juicy lime and pink grapefruit are tinged with sizzling raw ginger and nippy cress, while bittersweet nuttiness and an undertone of set stone add depth en route to a mouth-tinglingly vibrant, resonant finish. This should be a fantastic keeper.

The 2018 Goldtröpfchen Kabinett is attractively reductive yet super precise and clear on the nose where ripe, concentrated white peach aromas are displayed. The palate is ripe, lush and salty-piquant, with lots of gusto and sensual character but also finesse, elegance and precision. There are coolish flinty notes on the nose and palate. This a gorgeous wine with very good length, energy and concentration. From lower, flatter and warmer plots with bigger, less concentrated grapes. Tasted as a sample some days before bottling in April 2019.