2019 - Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien

The 2019 Leoville Barton is deep garnet-purple in color. It needs a fait bit of swirling to coax out wonderfully pure notes of blackcurrant jelly, wild blueberries, and boysenberries, followed by hints of tar, lavender, crushed rocks, and fragrant soil. The medium to full-bodied palate is an exercise in elegance, with very fine-grained, silt-like tannins and beautiful tension framing the highly nuanced black fruits, finishing very long and fantastically layered.

The 2019 Léoville Barton has a powerful and comparatively rich bouquet with layers of black fruit suffused with minerals - wonderful delineation. This has an effortlessness about it. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, gorgeous satin-like texture, mineral-driven with hints of truffle and white pepper towards the exceedingly harmonious finish. I thought this was outstanding before - now I think it might be a benchmark. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting.

Like its stablemate Langoa Barton, the 2019 Léoville Barton is a timeless classic, made for patient connoisseurs. Offering up aromas of blackcurrants, plums, pencil shavings and licorice, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, its deep core of fruit framed by a chassis of rich, powdery tannin that makes itself felt on the youthfully firm finish. While it's clearly built for the long haul, its structural seamlessness and mid-palate plenitude mark it out as one of the finest wines from this château in recent times. Could it be a more concentrated modern-day version of Anthony Barton's brilliant 1985?

Big rich, powerful wine with pencil lead precision. This is a brilliant wine, I loved it En Primeur and it is delivering on expectations. It's big, as is Langoa in this vintage, with damson and black cherry fruits, and tons of gourmet notes from brioche to bacon rind to chocolate shavings. The tannins are going to need a good decade to soften, but when it is ready, this is going to be such a fun wine to share with friends.

Tasted blind. Very intense crimson. Restrained nose. Relatively light but with lots buried underneath, so it does manage to be emphatic. Really builds on the finish so that pretty much all the quality is revealed in the (notably dry) finish. (JR)