1988 - Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien

The 1988 Leoville Barton has a medium to deep brick color. It prances out of the glass with showy scents of sandalwood, oolong tea, cigar box, and Fig Newtons, leading to a core of prunes, rose oil, and Chinese five spice. The light-bodied palate is fantastically intense and perfumed, featuring bright acidity and powdery tannins to support the elegant fruit, finishing long and ferrous.

It has been several years since I last encountered the 1988 Léoville Barton. It is just a tad smudged on the nose compared to the 1988 Lynch Bages. Pencil box aromas mix with black fruit and a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. The palate has evolved in the interim period, grainier in texture than I recall and spicy, but allow 15 to 20 minutes in the glass, and it manifests real elegance and grace on the finish. Just a lovely, mature Saint-Julien from the late Anthony Barton. Tasted at the 1988 Bordeaux dinner at Noble Rot Mayfair.