2017 - Barolo, Comm. G.B. Burlotto

The 2017 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo has lots of sweet but pure strawberry flavors whereas the 2018 is more floral with violet notes. It has a wonderful texture and concentration in the middle - it's like being enveloped in pure silk sheets - yet at the end there is a fine but firm edge to the tannins. It has riper fruit than the 2018 but the strawberry flavors still manage to be cool, concentrated and elegant.

The Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2017 Barolo (showing some of the gold medals and awards won for past vintages in the artwork depicted on the front label) offers a traditional and time-honored approach to Nebbiolo. It draws its fruit from various sites in Verduno. This is a soft and pliant expression that produces a long and fine succession of wild cherry, blue flower, crushed stone and anise-like aromas. You might also notice some rusty iron or candied apricot. This is a solid Barolo (with 10,000 bottles released) that vaunts a classic and traditional personality despite the hot vintage.

The 2017 Barolo is gorgeous. Beautifully perfumed and lifted, the 2017 is pure class. Sweet red berry fruit, crushed flowers, mint, spice and orange peel are all nicely lifted in this silky, mid-weight Barolo. Drink it over the next decade. The is a blend from Breri, Rocche dell' Olmo and Neirane, with a bit less Breri than normal, because the lower portions of the vineyard were affected by frost.

Total skin contact of two weeks. 'Not even in 2017 did I shorten this.' Just mid ruby and youthful looking. Fine and elegant nose of concentrated cherry laced with spice and notes of iron. Minerally, medicinal hint. Elegant, subtle sour-cherry fruit that is still a little closed. Long, finely ground tannins on the sour-cherry fruit finish. Elegant rather than powerful, but still needs to come further out of its shell. Not a wine you'd expect of a torrid year. (WS)