2016 - Camarcanda, Ca'Marcanda (Gaja), Bolgheri

Here's a rather unexpected surprise. Given my excellent first impressions when I tasted this wine four years ago, I expected the Ca' Marcanda 2016 Bolgheri Rosso Camarcanda to steal the show in this vertical. In fact, the wine is currently in an awkward stage during its transition from full primary fruit to tertiary notes. Those aged aromas recall dried current, spice and grilled herb. They serve to underline the dusty tannins and dry sensations you get on the finish. In all, this wine is moving away from its fruit faster than expected. I wonder what will happen during the next 10 years of its evolution: Will the fruit fade or flesh-out further?

The 2016 Camarcanda is pretty, open-knit and gracious in its bouquet, although there is a good bit of Cabernet tannin underpinning the dark fruit. Hints of chocolate, mint, sage, tobacco, licorice and blackberry develop in the glass. The 2016 needs a few years to soften, but it is undeniably attractive and inviting. It's hard to say if it is the vintage, or if the style here has moved towards a bit more freshness as it has at Gaja in Piedmont, but the 2016 Camarcanda does seem to have an extra kick of vibrancy over some previous editions. I can't wait to taste it with some bottle age.

80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. Deepish crimson. Pure, intense Cabernet aroma of lively cassis fruit and just a touch of dark-red fruit to lift the aroma. Intense, chewy, deep and yet so smooth. The tannins are super-polished so that although the fruit is only just starting to lose its primary dimension, the tannins make it already approachable. Darker and more savoury on the palate. Elegant and long. (JH)