2016 - Brunello di Montalcino Millecento Riserva, Castiglion del Bosco

The Castiglion del Bosco 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Millecento 1100 is the aspirational wine in this portfolio. It aims high and showcases the carefully manicured approach of the winemaking team in both the vineyard and the winery. This is a grand vintage with firm structure, lots of fruit brightness, depth and freshness. You should expect balanced intensity at this price point, and you get it. My only concern, again, is the high 15% alcohol, which is evidently part of a wider trend that now characterizes this appellation. Production is 20,000 bottles.

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Millecento is dark and animalistic with musky black currants, mocha, rosemary and underbrush lifted by a hint of camphor. This is decidedly salty and mineral in character, offsetting its silky textures with tart wild berries tinged with sour citrus, as grippy tannins mount toward the close. Balsam herbs, cocoa and hints of licorice linger incredibly long over a coating of fine-grained tannins through the heroically structured finale. There’s already so much going on here, but with cellaring, I expect even more.

Full bottle a very heavy 1,524 g. Transparent ruby. Pale rim. You'll never be aware of the alcoholic strength. This is almost featherlight! So appetising with a hint of autumn leaves and wonderfully fresh fruit. Hint of prunes on the nose but the fruit is not dried – it's fresh. Long and layered. This is what Brunello can do. The 2015 was lovely too. Great intensity of flavour. Love the little bitter note on the finish after that very superior fruit. (JR)