2021 - Von Der Fels Riesling Trocken, Keller

About half of this Riesling comes from Kirchspiel (representing most of the Keller’s vines in that site that aren’t close to seventy years old), with the rest mostly from Hubacker; but the other Westhofen crus are also marginally represented. Apple and white peach aromas are laced with basil and mint in an alluring aromatic display. Zesty lime, ginger and coriander seed serve for startling inner-mouth stimulation and striking vivacity against a background of satiny, glossy richness. The finish grips cheek-tuggingly, deploying pip- and pit-piquancy for maximum stimulation, while delivering consummate refreshment.

The dry counterpart to Limestone Kabinett, from different parts of the same vineyards. Low yields, 40 hl/ha (20% lost due to mildew in June plus green harvest). Bottled mid May 2022. Green fruits and deep citrus but with a mineral character that is more oily than stony. Richer and more spicy than in some vintages. There’s power in this wine that would probably be a Grosses Gewächs in the portfolio of most other producers. Then after that powerful first impression, it pulls in tight and fresh on the finish. A lot of impact initially. Then great freshness on the finish. (JH)