2022 - Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

The 2022 Brane-Cantenac has another very intense bouquet: black cherries, red plum, camphor, crushed stone and a touch of melted tar on a hot summer's day. Again, very fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with velvety tannins. Very pliant, with beautiful purity of fruit, harmonious and poised, with a peacock's tail on the finish. The best Brane-Cantenac ever made. Period. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting in London.

Juicy and extremely impressive fruit quality, this harnesses the best of 2022 and is one of the wines of the vintage. You feel the texture and the power of the fruit, streaks of cocoa, liquorice, and rose petals, totally love it. The biggest alcohol of the series, and certainly you get a touch of crème de cassis and ripe fresh fig, carefully delivered with great texture to the tannins. This was the year that Henri Lurton passed the estate over to his four children while remaining as general manager, and also planted Malbec for the first time in the vineyard. Harvest September 7 to October 10, 315hl/h yield, 100% new oak barrels for ageing. Eric Boissenot consultant, Henri Lurton owner, Christophe Capdeville technical director. I have given this wine 98 points consistently every time I have tasted it, and truly it is excellent.

The 2022 from Henri Lurton is a blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 1% each Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Carmenère. I just adore the nose here, dark yet perfumed and fresh, with smoked blackberry fruit laced with sandalwood, incense, white peach and a touch of mint, as well as a gentle touch of peppery energy. The palate is no less beautiful than the nose suggests, with great harmony and polish, a very correct stance, the dark fruit underpinned by a spindle of dark and deliciously well-knit tannins. This is wonderfully coherent, all spiced and peppery in the finish, before a length which comes infused with peppery tannins. A brilliantly fashioned Margaux with a rich tannic structure that will carry this forward for decades. A great example of Brane-Cantenac and the appellation as a whole. Tasted twice. The alcohol on the label is 14%.

The 2022 Brane-Cantenac has turned out nicely in bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of cassis and plums mingled with hints of cigar wrapper, violets and pencil shavings. Full-bodied, layered and velvety, with a lively core of fruit framed by rich, chalky tannins, it displays excellent energy and persistence. This blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and the balance Cabernet Franc, Carmenère and Petit Verdot was bottled in July 2024.

Tasted blind. Perfumed, classic Margaux on the nose. A wine that’s somehow really comfortable in its skin, nose with sweetness and resolution. You could really enjoy this now! So long. With freshness, too. But it would be a shame to drink it too early. (JR)