2022 - L'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol

The grand vin from Noëmie Durantou, this is 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, as always. The élevage was in 85% new oak. There is a gloriously confident fragrance to the nose, with polished berry fruits, griottes and red cherry, very pure, but there are also notes of dark chocolate, dried sage, wild hawthorn, floral violets, roses and black pepper. Supple and deceptively straight at the start, hiding its light under a bushel at first, but in the midpalate it broadens out to reveal spiced cherry fruits, dark chocolate, sage, violets and peonies, with that peppery spice hinted at on the nose. The tannins are rather hidden by the wine’s confident and sinewy texture, flanking the middle of the wine but never obtrusive, with a more tightly knit and peppery grip through to the finish. A great L’Église-Clinet here, reflecting the concentration of the vintage, but holding on to a floral and fresh character. A stunner, and perhaps one of the best vintages of Église-Clinet I have tasted, a great wine but also classically Pomerol, on the mineral side, and most importantly undeniable evidence of Noëmie Durantou’s capabilities. This will be a superb addition to any Pomerol lover’s cellar. The alcohol is 14.6% on analysis.

The 2022 L'Eglise-Clinet has a complex bouquet, earthier than its peers, sous-bois-infused red berry fruit, cedar and tobacco, again gaining intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, very supple tannins matched by a silver thread of acidity. It closes in a little towards the finish, though you can already feel the persistency on the aftertaste. Excellent. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting in London.

This is a wine that needs time in the bottle and in the glass, serious and well built, with body and character, and merits extra ageing. The texture brings us into the heart of Pomerol, or rather its heights, with luscious but reserved quality and the intellectual edge of L'Eglise Clinet. Crushed roses and violets set against dark cassis and blueberry fruits, just brilliant. Harvest September 3 to 9 harvest. 85% new oak, harvest September 3 to 9. Noemie Durantou and Olivier Gautrat.

Offering up deep aromas of mulberries and cassis mingled with incense, licorice, rose petals, spices and hints of new oak, the 2022 L'Eglise Clinet is full-bodied, deep and layered, with an elegantly muscular core of ripe but vibrant fruit that's framed by sweet, powdery tannins. Concentrated and multidimensional, it concludes with a long, resonant finish. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, harvested between September 3 and 9, this compelling Pomerol checks in at a largely concealed 14.6% alcohol.

90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Cask sample.Wonderful expression of fruit, the aroma an explosion of floral-violet notes. Huge density on the palate, the tannins silky and very long. Lingers on the finish. Fresh, harmonious and definitely for the long haul. (JL)