2021 - Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derriere Chez Edouard Saint Aubin Cuvee Haute Densite, Hubert Lamy

Aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, citrus zest, apple blossom and sweet stones introduce the 2021 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and complete wine that's layered and harmonious, with a cool core of fruit that's girdled by racy acids, concluding with a long, saline finish. Yields here were 22 hectoliters per hectare, with a planting density of up to 30,000 vines per hectare. As ever, this will really demand a decade of patience to reveal its full potential.

The 2021 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard Haut Densité 1er Cru, from vines planted at 20,000 per hectare, has the most backward and austere nose of Lamy's whites at this stage. The palate is well-balanced with a malic entry and fine depth. Quite a "serious" Saint-Aubin that comes across more like a Puligny in style. Good length, if just a bit aloof at the moment.