2019 - Brunello di Montalcino, Giodo

When I tasted this wine with its maker, the celebrated enologist Carlo Ferrini, he told me that he put every last drop of love into the 2019 vintage. He believes it is the best wine he has made thus far at his relatively new Giodo project that started in 2009. Indeed, I would rank the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino as high as or even better than the best vintages made at this boutique estate. In my mind, they are 2010, 2016 and now 2019. This wine comes from a three-hectare plot with 19-year-old vines that are cared for obsessively. This amphitheater-shaped parcel called La Poderina is nestled deep within the forest on a steep slope that overlooks Monte Amiata in the distance. The soils are white in color with lots of rocks. This is a wine of depth and dimension, with vibrant energy, elegant balsamic notes and sweetly ripened fruit. The medium fruit weight is balanced against the wine's acidity and fine tannins. It ends with floral notes of violet and iris.

Made from 100% Sangiovese, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is medium garnet-purple in color. It soars from the glass with classic notions of dried cherries, tobacco leaf, and ripe redcurrants, followed by wafts of wild sage and crushed rocks. The medium to full-bodied palate shimmers with energetic red berry and mineral-inspired flavors with a racy backbone and grainy tannins, finishing with a real skip in its step.

Plum with ruby reflections, this is deeply flavourful, suggesting careful extraction giving plenty of damson and sour plum character, fine but plentiful tannins, savoury tobacco and grilled meats, with floral edges, raspberry leaf and turmeric spice. Fragrant and full of quiet joy. From a vineyard set at 300m altitide, 30 months ageing followed by 18 months in bottle, south west fasting slppes; gravel and clay. Carlo Ferrini winemaker.

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is hauntingly dark, with a cascade of dried violets, black cherries and cedar shavings complicated by hints of ash. It's velvety in feel yet cool-toned and spry, with radiant red berry fruits that ride a stream of vibrant acidity. While structured, its tannins are beautifully contoured, soft and round. The 2019 leaves a pleasantly bitter tinge of tart cranberry that tugs at the cheeks. This is a gorgeous performance and a new benchmark for Giodo.

This vintage was described by the Giodo team as 'resembling the classic vintages of the 1990s', meaning sufficient rainfall and relatively moderate temperatures.  Bright shaded garnet with some transparency. Sweet start and very fine tannins indeed. Amazingly supple! Fun to drink already although it has real punch. Complete. (JR)