2022 - Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays

The 2022 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is a blend of 11 different cuvées and includes, for the first time, the plot of "30 Rangs". This vintage includes 80% whole bunches, and like La Richemoine, it is deftly subsumed on the nose, which blossoms with vivacious red berry fruit, forest floor, white truffle, and light autumn leaf scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a svelte Clos des Lambrays with a slightly chalky, mineral-rich finish. Very tender and complex, this is undoubtedly a great wine with a long-term future.

An 8.66-ha climat with vines aged 22–124 years. Vines are planted east–west so spared the worst effects of sunburn, hence the tressage technique of training vines to provide shade appeals less to Devauges than to some of his peers. 80% whole bunch. 19 months in 20% new oak. The three cuvées parcellaires below are not commercial samples, they were chosen to demonstrate the variation within the Clos des Lambrays – a re-creation in London of what one could taste of the 11 plots of the Clos.Plante Bas: 0.78-ha plot in the north-east corner. Brown soil over various limestones. Average vine age 42 years. All destemmed. 19 months in 20% new oak.Deep, glowing crimson. Intense, wild, almost raw nose (shades of Pacalet!) with a hint of liquorice. Lots of weight and complexity. Not nearly ready but interesting and a stake in the ground. Muscular and very long. Le Cerisier: 0.92-ha plot in the south-west corner next to Clos de Tart. Average vine age 90 years Thin red soil over ancient limestone. 19 months in 20% new oak. Bright crimson. Pale rim. Much gentler nose than Plante Bas. ‘Feminine’ stereotype. Gentle and incredibly long. My favourite or the three cuvées parcellaires and the most seductive. The finish is especially complex.80 Ouvrées Haut: 0.85-ha plot in the middle of the top of the slope that is 60 m higher than the two plots described above. Dark brown soil over Premeaux limestone. Average vine age 90 years. 19 months in 20% new oak. Bright crimson. Edgy and racy. Nose of candy. Then lots of chew and limestone freshness on the palate.Final blend Tank sample; to be bottled in early April. Deep, glowing, dark crimson. Reticent nose but clearly great depth. Almost bitter finish because it is stuffed with tannins! For now this is less approachable than, say, Le Cerisier 2022. Great tension and depth but brooding rather than seductive. (JR)