2022 - Sassicaia, Tenuta San Guido, Bolgheri

The Tenuta San Guido 2022 Bolgheri Sassicaia is very much defined by its strong tannic backbone, and tasting it now, a year after release, that impression remains unchanged. A perfumed, almost floral component lifts the bouquet, which stays elegantly vertical and sharp despite the wine’s power. This is a little tank of a wine, moving forward with muscle and intensity, a character memorably described by Tenuta San Guido general manager Carlo Paoli as “a kid with a drum kit,” an image that feels both fitting and true. The vintage saw lower yields, down 18%, due to severe fruit selection in a hot and dry growing season. The finish brings playful notes of mint and sweet grenadine, trailing off with surprising elegance.

The tannins are gentle and integrated even now, while still in barrel, and its provides a striking contrast wtih many 2022s from this corner of Tuscany, where concentration is the byword. Sassicaia is able to retain acidity even in the hottest summers, and the balsamic and butterscotch notes are beautifully balanced by rosebuds, lavender, red cherries, rosemary, fennel, charred sandalwood and tomato leaf. The frame is in place, and the density offset by a soft textural caress. Sample taken from three barrels, final wine to be shipped in a few months, after a dry vintage helped by a few rains here just before harvest. 40% new oak for ageing, Carlo Paoli director.

The 2022 Sassicaia is a very pretty, expressive wine. There’s a bit more Cabernet Sauvignon (and less Franc) in this year’s blend, and that really comes through in the wine’s flavor profile and slightly bruising tannins. Dark cherry, plum, leather, licorice, graphite and incense give the 2022 striking aromatic presence to match its rather brooding personality. There’s a bit of tension in the tannins that needs time to resolve. Yields were down about 20% because of intensely cold weather in spring, variable conditions during flowering and set, and then searing heat and drought throughout the summer.

88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, harvested throughout September. 13–15 days’ maceration. Aged for 23 months in French oak barriques (225 litres). TA 6.1 g/l, pH 3.45, RS 0.25 g/l. See my earlier note. This bottle presented by a Frenchman!Transparent crimson. Savoury, balsam, appetising nose. Much drier (as opposed to sweet) than the other wines here. Strong French influence on the reticent structure. Lots of fresh tannin currently dominates the fruit but the fruit is pretty nuanced and interesting. But it’s still extremely youthful. The most youthful wine here. Aerate before serving for many years. (JR)