1998 - Sassicaia, Tenuta San Guido, Bolgheri

Gentle ruby red, tawny on the edges, soft clove and woodsmoke aromatics, enticing tertiary caress on the palate, with crushed brambled raspberries, old books, olive pit, leather, saffron. This was an exceptional, fully ripe vintage and is a little more evolved than the last time that tasted it. Opened two bottles, and this is not just individual variation, but also part of the mystery of wine's evolution, where it can dip and rise in quality and character through the years. Feel confident that this 1998 will come back around, or you can drink now and simply enjoy sinking into the exuberance. 40% new oak for ageing, Giacomo Tachis winemaker.

Lustrous mid ruby with a bricky rim. Beautiful, fine nose of cassis and undergrowth, laced with oak, yet a little fuller than its bordeaux blueprint. A little locked up, but the palate shows fine sweet cassis and long-lasting grainy tannins. Gorgeous freshness on the finish. The oak is noticeable, but the whole is far from falling apart. (WS)