1997 - Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses L.V.

25 years after vintage, disgorged at the same time as the (not dissimilar in spirit) 2013, and at this point you can expect a slight softening in the pressure of the mousse, and a whole heap of extra truffle, creme patisserie, brioche and wax flavours. After so long on the lees, you might also get a touch of marmite reduction at first, so I would give it a short carafe before drinking - basically just decant for 5 minutes and then straight out into your glass. As it opens, you get waves of aromatic herbs, angelica-liqourice, touch of honeysuckle, frangipane, soot, cold ash, grilled almond, even rancio oxidative notes on the finish. An October harvest which is extremely late for Champagne, this has decades ahead of it. Today's winemaker Thierry Garnier was already there, but chef de cave was Norbert Thiebert.

The 1997 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. is a stunning Champagne, with aromas of coffee beans, vanilla, honeycomb, pastry, ripe orchard fruits and a touch of menthol. Full-bodied, layered and textural, it’s perfectly balanced with an enveloping core of fruit and a delicate mousse. It concludes with an elegantly vinous profile and a long, sapid finish. Although already thoroughly enjoyable, it should age well over the next five to 10 years.

The 1997 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. is a very pretty, understated wine. Lemon confit, hazelnut, dried flowers, mint, herbs, spice and pastry notes infuse the 2017 with lovely character. This is an especially mid-weight, restrained vintage for Clos des Goisses that reflects both the personality of a cold year and the era before Charles Philipponat began refocusing the maison on quality beginning in the early 2000s. As such, it is really a wine that belongs to the past, both literally and figuratively. The 1997 was done mostly in 15hL enamel-lined tanks. Dosage is 4.3 grams per liter. Disgorged: March 2022.

A current release made before Charles Philipponnat took over. He observed that he would have picked the grapes slightly riper and fermented them slightly warmer, adding 'but it's still very good now', proving that Clos des Goisses can transcend vintage and vinification. Still extremely tense and racy with a note of ginger. A little shorter than the Clos des Goisses bottlings but really full and broad on the mid palate. Well done! (JR)