2005 - Le Sol, Craggy Range, Gimblett Gravels

2005 Le Sol is simply an incredible wine, a massive nose of black plum, game and a touch of tar, the palate full-bodied with robust tannins and just like the great Northern Rhone producers, delivers a svelte, elegant finish that belies the powerful fruit that charges this wine along. If you doubt New Zealand can make world-class wines, then try this. The precocious Craggy Range has rapidly become one of New Zealand’s premier wine producers. Established in 1997, it is the collaboration between businessman Terry Peabody and the winemaking expertise of quiet, retiring Steve Smith MW, who concentrates upon the Bordeaux-blend “Sophia” and the Sauvignon Blanc. Smith has employed the skills of Rob Easthope to focus upon Chardonnay and Syrah and Adrian Baker on Pinot Noir, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. The state-of-the-art winery is modeled on futuristic architecture and is over-shadowed by the peaks that give rise to their name. The philosophy is firmly directed towards small production of single vineyard sites a la Burgundy. They purchased their own vineyard in the Te Muna sub-region of Martinborough where Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are cultivated, whilst fruit from the South Island is out-sourced. Their two flagship wines of “Sophia,” a Bordeaux blend and “Le Sol,” which is 100% Syrah. Recent vintages of these were tasted both at the winery and appeared in blind horizontal tasting where their quality shone through. Importer: Kobrand Corporation, Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7700; Fax (914) 253-7910

Magnum. Strongly peppery nose. Really tickles the nose. Soft round sweet and very slightly treacly on the palate but still with zest. Only the nose is like Rhône but there is nothing remotely flabby or excessive about this. (JR)