The Arnoux 2006 Clos Vougeot displays a more overt sense of structure than its Nuits and Vosne premier cru siblings, with the tannins segueing into a tactile sense of somehow ore-like mineral impingement. But at the same time, the primary fruit character here is unusually sweet, with an almost candied sense of cassis, black raspberry, and dark chocolate, offset by the bitter sides of fruit skin and cocoa, as well as by the wine's smoky and mineral notes, and augmented by overtones of mint, soy, and cedar. This is unusually rich, powerful, and architecturally ambitious for a 2006 – if not as refined as many, even among its stable mates – and likely to be worth cellaring for 4-5 years before enjoying for the subsequent 10-12.
David Schildknecht - 22 December 2009