Fourrier’s 2008 Morey-St.-Denis Clos Sorbe – of which, as usual and unfortunately, there are but two barrels – leads with high-toned herbal concentrates; hints of distilled black fruits; and a smoky pungency akin to Szechuan pepper, all of which convey a strikingly intense combinatory synergy on a firmly – and indeed slightly grittily – tannic palate. This invigorating but youthfully recalcitrant (or slightly bottle-shocked) Clos Sorbe deserves to be reassessed later this year, although I feel sure, in terms of sheer longevity, that it is not going to decay for at least 8-10 years.