Sorrel's 2003 Hermitage Blanc les Rocoules is sensational stuff. Thick, unctuous and made in a pedal-to-the-metal style, it offers lots of almond paste, white currants, honeysuckle and white-flower notes to go with tons of glycerol, full-bodied richness, huge concentration and a blockbuster, heady finish. Harvested early in September (which is late in this vintage), and seeing malo in barrel, I'm sure some will find this over the top, but I love it. It's still fresh and lively at age 12, and, given its lofty alcohol and serious concentration, it should have another couple decades of longevity.