I was blown away by the 1999 Hermitage les Bessards, and I seriously considered adding another point or two to the score. One of the most complex, classic and multidimensional in the lineup, it offers lots of crushed rock-like minerality, smoked black fruits, spice and licorice aromas and flavors. These give way to a full-bodied, deeply concentrated, layered and perfectly balanced wine that had me wishing it was the end of the day so I could drink the whole glass. It's a gorgeous wine to enjoy anytime over the coming 15-20 years.