The 1998 Shiraz Reserve has the most potential of this trio. It combines some of the mature elements of the 1997 with the massive richness of the 1996, but without the 1996's slightly rustic framework. A dense purple color is followed by a sensational bouquet of creme de cassis, charcoal, and incense. Full-bodied, opulent, and voluptuously-textured, this is a big, but incredibly well-balanced wine. Its fruit bomb-like personality of a decade ago has morphed into something far more civilized, delineated, and refined. This gorgeous offering is a superb example of McLaren Vale Shiraz. Enjoy it over the next 10-15+ years.