Mirabelle and herbal distillates along with peat-like and blond tobacco smokiness in the nose of the 2009 Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese gold capsule A.P. #43 – a bottling not auctioned but offered on Loosen’s regular price list, by the way – usher in a concentrated yet almost airily delicate palate resembling an orange and vanilla creamsicle drenched in the aforementioned distillates. The pungency of botrytis is evidenced again in a finish of delicate, distinctively delicious persistence. This is understated and lithe in comparison with the gaudy, often plump style of Pralat that long-prevailed this address, and if it is not clearly more exciting today than its “regular” counterpart, this does not mean it fails to make its own singular statement already today, or that it won’t ultimately be more complex. In any event, we’re talking about a wine worth following for three decades.